Today's Shoes

Day

John Lobb Paris three-eyelet plain-toe V-front bluchers in tobacco suede with single leather soles (Perrier model, 8896 last). The first really expensive shoes that I ever lusted after were from John Lobb Paris -- three-eyelet plain-toe ankle boots in tobacco suede with low-profile rubber soles. I saw them at Neiman Marcus in 1997 or 1998, and I thought that they were about as perfect as a pair of shoes could be. The model name was Giono, and it turned out that it had been developed as an ankle boot variant of Perrier. Well, I saw pictures of Perrier, and I thought that it was pretty perfect, too, although Lobb had this inexplicable habit of making it up in black. These shoes were a special order inspired by those Giono boots. It's a pity that the 8896 last doesn't fit me better (like most Lobb Paris lasts, it's too wide in the heel for me), but Perrier is one beautiful shoe. The picture above doesn't really do it justice, both because it's crappy and the color of leather selected doesn't really do much for the pattern; but I have to work with what I can find on the interweb.

Evening

Gravati ghillie tie split-toe bluchers with twin-needle stitching on the apron and toe (13555, 500 last).

Today's Shoes

Day

Alden high-lace wing-tip blucher boots in cigar (dark brown) shell cordovan with double leather soles (Plaza last). These are more special editions from Tom Park at LeatherSoul Hawaii, and there are two particularly interesting things about these boots. First, they have a faux counter, where the counter is traced out by brogueing but does not really exist. In other words, they're kind of like partial blind brogues. Second, the tongue is unlined shell cordovan, and it's surprising how soft, thin, and pliable it is when it is just there by itself. They're beautiful boots; and if you like them, Tom has a new shipment of the same boot in Color #8 shell cordovan in now.

Evening

Gravati split-toe ghillie-tie bluchers in tan suede with combination leather/rubber soles (13555, 500 last).

Today's Shoes

Day

Gravati side-zip plain-toe ankle boots in dark brown kangaroo with single leather soles (16821, 683 last). People tend to think that kangaroos are cuddly cartoon-like animals. They're not. They can be downright nasty, as is suggested by the fact that it can be hard to find kangaroo hides that are free from scars and imperfections, even skins used by top-quality makers.

Evening

Gravati split-toe ghillie-tie bluchers in tan suede with combination leather/rubber soles (13555, 500 last).

Today's Shoes

Day

Cleverley three-eyelet plain-toe blucher in medium brown Russian reindeer calf.

Evening

Gravati split-toe ghillie-tie bluchers in tan suede with a combination leather/rubber sole (13555, 500 last).

Today's Shoes

Day

Edward Green double monkstrap shoes with a handsewn apron and toe seam in dark tan calfskin (Fulham model, 82 last). I love these shoes.

Evening

Gravati ghillie-tie bluchers with twin-needle stitching on the apron and toe in tan suede (13555, 500 last). I notice that I wore these shoes last Monday. I apologize profusely for my lack of variety in footwear. I have let you down, and I promise to do better in the future.

Today's Shoes

Day

Edward Green plain-toe side-buckle monkstraps in Edwardian Antique (Stowe model, 808 last). Stowe is Edward Green's answer to John Lobb Paris's sublime Jermyn II, the difference being that Jermyn II is a wholecut where Stowe has separate pieces of leather for the vamp and quarters. In recent years, Edward Green has retired this model in favor of the Oundle, which has less sweep in the strap, because the configuration of the strap and the vamp/quarter seam in the Stowe is not particularly comfortable or particularly durable. My Stowes were a special order from Edward Green's Burlington Arcade store (before they shut down that store and moved to the current one on Jermyn St.).

Evening

Gravati split-toe ghillie-tie bluchers in tan suede with a rubber sole (13555, 500 last).

Today's Shoes

Day

Gravati split-toe monkstraps in Radica 03 calf (17194, last 697). Radica 03 is the approximately the same hue as Radica 033, but it has less red to it. A beautiful color, and a very nice shoe.

Evening

Gravati split-toe ghillie-tie split-toe bluchers in tan suede (13555, last 500). The shoe pictured above (the Glyndibourne from Edward Green) has ghillie lacing as it is traditionally configured, with eyelets in tabs for the laces and with no tongue. The Italians picked the idea up and, as they are wont to do, took the idea and put their own distinctive twist on it. Their version of ghillie lacing has tunnels for the laces instead of simply tabs with eyelets, and they don't dispense with the tongue. These were the first Gravati shoes that I ever bought, and they remain some of my favorites.