Today's Shoes

Martegani six-eyelet plain-toe bluchers with a floating medallion in navy blue shell cordovan with a thick single leather sole (3B last). Martegani's US representative, Ron Rider, calls this model the Lucca II. My shoes are identical to the ones pictured to the right in every respect except that they are made from navy blue shell cordovan instead of that tan calfskin. Yes, you read correctly. They're navy blue shell cordovan. Horween, the Chicago tannery that makes the best shell cordovan, actually makes small quantities of navy blue. When I first heard that, I knew that I would have to have something made from it, and this particular model seemed like a good choice. Getting the shoes was a bit of an adventure: when Martegani started to make them up, there were exactly two navy shells in Italy; and it takes two shells to make one pair of shoes. They accidentally split one of them while lasting it, and they had to wait several months before getting a replacement. No matter. The shoes were worth the wait. The 3B last runs long naturally, and, as with all shell cordovan shoes, these fit a bit more loosely than the same shoe in calfskin. Today, though, they fit reasonably well -- no heel slippage after a day of wear. I may have to wear these more often.

Today's Shoes

Day

Vass high-lace wingtip blucher boots in dark brown calfskin with single leather soles (F last). The combination of last -- the slim, rounded-toe F -- and the single sole combine to make this very much a city boot. There is an old rule that one should not wear bluchers with a suit (a rule that I don't believe in and ignore), but if ever the rulemakers make an exception, it would be for these boots. A friend of mine recently received an order of these boots in Color #8 shell cordovan with double leather soles to wear as bad weather boots in the winter in New York City, and he tells me that the effect is completely different. The shell cordovan and the double sole conspire to make the boot look much more rugged and rustic. All of which goes to illustrate that this is another of the chameleon shoe models.

Evening

Martegani three-eyelet wholecut size-lace shoes in tobacco waterproof suede with heavy single leather soles (3B last). These shoes are my second attempt at replicating the original Cleverley model shown above (the Vass hunter's goyser on P2 being the first), and it is a much closer replica. It still isn't the same, though, and I fear that I might have to order a bespoke shoe from Cleverley (or from Gaziano & Girling or Foster's) in order to get the look.

Today's Shoes

Day

Gaziano & Girling modified adelaide half-brogue bal in fox suede (kind of an orange-y, tobacco-y color) with single leather soles (Hughes model, DG70 last). The shoes pictured above are the same model and last as my shoes, only different leather (obviously). Tony and Dean are scheduled to introduce some boot models in January, and I can hardly wait -- a chelsea boot or a true balmoral boot on this same DG70 last would be perfect.

Evening

Martegani six-eyelet plain toe bluchers with a floating medallion in antique tan calf with thick leather soles (Lucca model, 3B last).

Today's Shoes

Day

Gravati high-lace punch-cap balmoral boots in dark brown calf with single leather soles (10278, 683 last). Gravati's 683 last is my current favorite. It's what Tony Gaziano would call a smart round toe -- slightly elongated, which allows the toe to be narrower, but not needle-nose narrow. It has the same general visual characteristics as the John Lobb Paris 7000 and the Edward Green 82 lasts. It really works on these boots and on most of the other Gravati shoes that I have ordered on it.

Evening

Martegani wholecut side-lace bals in waterproof snuff suede with thick single leather soles (3B last). The 3B last is also elongated, only with a square toe instead of a round toe. It works on this shoe. I should wear them more often.

Today's Shoes

Day

John Lobb Paris two-eyelet plain-toe bluchers with V-shaped quarters in London tan calf (Tamar model, 8000 last). I don't wear these shoes much, and I was reminded why today: the last makes my feet look huge, and it doesn't fit my feet very well. This is a problem with most JL Paris lasts. They're too big in the heel for me, which causes blisters with extended wearing. A shame, really, because the V-front blucher is one of my favorite shoe designs.

Evening

Martegani six eyelet plain-toe blucher with a floating medallion in London tan calf (Lucca model, 3B last). A good looking shoe on another last that doesn't fit me particularly well, again in the heel. Alas!