Today's Shoes

Vass Theresianer high-lace cap-toe blucher boots in antic cognac calfskin with double leather soles and a steel plate in the toe of the sole (P2 last). The boot pictured above is identical to the ones I have with the exception of the last -- it's on 3636 instead of P2. The speed lacers that form the upper six pairs of eyes make it easier to get the boots on and off, but they present a problem: they tend to tear up the laces. I can't get laces to last longer than a few months. Oh, well. They're great boots, anyway.

Today's Shoes

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Vass three-eyelet plain-toe side-lace shoes in dark burgundy calfskin with single leather soles (Hunter's Goyser model, P2 last). One of Alan Flusser's arguments regarding shoes is that colors other than black and brown look painted-on, cheap, and artificial. He singles out burgundy (at least in calfskin), among other colors like blue and gray, for disdain. I have a great deal of respect for Flusser's aesthetic sensibilities, but I think that he's wrong about burgundy calfskin. It's true that burgundy looks awful when it's used on cheap, corrected-grain shoes; but cheap, corrected-grain shoes look awful regardless of the color of the leather. Burgundy is just another shade in the brown leather family, and if it's done properly by a high-quality tannery, the result can be very attractive. In case you're wondering, Vass uses excellent tanneries for all their leathers, including their dark burgundy calf.

Evening

Sutor Mantellassi three-eyelet chukka boots in navy blue suede with Norwegian construction and rubber soles.

Today's Shoes

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Vass cap-toe bals in burgundy calfskin with beveled single leather soles (P2 last). The shoes above are the same model (Vass calls it Alt Englisch) in a different color leather, last (Peter), and waist treatment. Unusual for a cap-toe bal, this shoe has a heel counter. Notice also the throat -- those small swoosh-like pieces of leather there are also unusual on this style of shoe.

Evening

Gravati four-eyelet plain-toe bluchers in dark brown grained (Lama) calf with combination leather/rubber soles (16532, 640 last).

Today's Shoes

Vass high-lace cap-toe blucher boots in red-brown calfskin (Vass calls it Antic -- that's apparently how you spell antique in Magyar -- Cognac) with double leather soles with steel plates in the toes (Theresianer boot model, P2 last). These boots were inspired by a sample that Gabor Halmos, the Vass rep in the US, has of the Theresianer boot on U last in Antic Cognac. It's a stunning boot, but I don't like the way U last fits me. I basically wanted the same boot, only on P2 last. That is, I wanted a single sole with a beveled waist. That's not what I got. Evidently, there was some breakdown in communication in the chain from me to Gabor to the factory in Budapest. It is still a nice looking boot with a double leather sole and an unbeveled waist, although it resembles a combat boot more than a refined city boot. And so, since I have gotten them, I have tended to wear them in situations where combat boots are metaphorically appropriate. Like, for instance, when going to see an art exhibit with Mamacita and B and thence gallivanting about town.

Today's Shoes

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Vass three-eyelet side-lace shoes in burgundy calf with single leather soles (P2 last). Vass calls this model the Hunter's Goyser, which should give you an indication about how they see this shoe made up: on the Budapest last in Scotch-grain calf with a reverse welt. I was going for more of a city shoe and something to emulate a side-lace Cleverley bespoke model that I've seen. To be honest, it didn't really work. It's a nice enough shoe, but I'd probably have to go with Cleverley or Tony Gaziano really to get the look I'm looking for.

Evening

Gravati Chelsea boot in tobacco suede with single leather soles (16366, 655 last).

Today's Shoes

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Vass cap-toe bal in burgundy calf with a beveled single leather sole (Old English model, P2 last). These shoes have heel counters, which is a bit unusual for cap-toes without any broguing.

Evening

Edward Green monkstrap ankle boots in dark oak antique calf with double leather soles that narrow to single leather soles at the waist (Olney model, 606 last). The shoes pictured above are not mine, but they have exactly the same configuration as mine do.