Today's Shoes

Day

Gravati split-toe monkstrap in caramel-colored Radica 03 calf with a combination leather/rubber sole (17194, 697 last). The British would call 697 a "susquare" last; that is, a last where the toe shows a suspicion of squareness. The edges are rounded, but because the radius of curvature on the toe edge is so large, it gives the impression of almost being a square-toe last.

Evening

Gravati four-eyelet plain-toe blucher in dark brown grained Lama calf with a combination leather/rubber soles (16493, 640 last). There is no suspicion about 640 last: it is certainly square.

Today's Shoes

Day

Gravati plain-toe double monkstraps in Radica 033 calf (13618, last 500). These were yet another special order; and, while I like the result, it would have been better if I had opted for a slimmer waist and a close-cut heel. Coulda, woulda, shoulda. I imagine that I'll live.

Evening

Crockett & Jones plain-toe single monkstraps in tan calf (Mortimer model, 330 last). These shoes are from C&J's Handgrade line, which is designed to compete with the likes of Edward Green and John Lobb Paris. They're nice shoes, but not quite on that level. The degree of attention paid to the sole and heel edge finishing is not as great, and the lasts aren't as stylish. They're cheaper than the other two, but I don't wear my pairs as frequently as I do my Edward Greens. What does it matter if one pair of shoes is cheaper than another if you don't wear them.

Today's Shoes

Day

Gravati side-buckle plain-toe monkstraps in Radica 01 (16042, 433 last). Radica 01 is a lovely dark brown leather, significantly less flashy than the 033 that I wore yesterday but still variegated and interesting. These shoes were a special order from Harold's in the Heights from maybe two and a half years ago. I was trying for a shoe similar to the John Lobb Paris Jermyn II (the most sublime ready-to-wear shoe in existence), but I made a couple of mistakes: the last has too bulbous a toe for a Jermyn II knockoff, and the wheeling is too big. It would have been much better on the 683 last. Alas, alas. They're still nice shoes.

Evening

Martegani high-vamp penny loafers in an English tan (pictured above right), purchased at Harold's a couple of months ago. I love these shoes. The high vamp, the square toe, and the close-cut sole all make for a very sleek rendition of the penny loafer. I may have to get these in dark brown, too.

Today's Shoes

Day

Gravati reversed-seam cap-toe bal in Radica 033 (16496, 500 last). Imagine the shoe above, only in a variegated red-tan leather. Radica is a line of aniline leathers that are sponged while still wet to give them a marble-like variegation. Lobb Paris calls it "museum calf", but Gravati prefers to call it what the tannery calls it. Color 033 is the most eye-popping of the colors offered. The reversed seams make this shoe an interesting and subtly different take on the traditional cap-toe.

Evening

Gravati saddle bal with both the vamp and the saddle in nicotina (mid-brown) peccary (15578, 640 last). Peccary is a wild boar-like animal indigenous to South America, and leather made from its hide is similar in appearance and feel to deerskin but much more durable.