Today's Shoes

Alden two-eyelet chukka boots in dark brown calfskin with a reverse welt, sole extension, and a commando sole (Barrie last). This is a special make-up for Alden of Carmel (AF32) that I purchased a number of years ago. The picture above shows a good detail of Alden's commando sole. The boot has a full double leather sole, then a low profile rubber lug sole stitched on top of it. It provides good traction without calling attention to itself. Adam Knott, the proprietor of Alden of Carmel, is primarily a make-up specialist, and he really likes the commando sole. I can't say that I disagree with him -- it makes for a very versatile shoe.

Today's Shoes

Alden two-eyelet plain-toe chukka boot in tobacco suede with a reverse welt and a mini-lug rubber sole that Alden calls "commando" (Barrie last). Standard Alden suede is dark brown with a very short nap. This suede is a rust brown with a significantly longer nap. It's much richer-looking and -feeling than the standard offering. I don't quite understand why Alden doesn't use it except for retailer make-ups or one-off special orders (like this one was, although Alden has suspended one-offs for the time being). Heck, I don't understand why more retailers don't do make-ups in it.

Today's Shoes

Alden two-eyelet chukka boot in dark brown calf with an extended split reverse welt and a commando sole (AF32 model, Barrie last). Alden's stock lineup doesn't ever change much and is notable for how conservative and boring it is. What really helps them is that they allow retailers to specify their own special make-ups, choosing pattern, last, leather, sole, and finishing. The only catch is that those retailers have to order a minimum number of shoes in each specification (I'm not sure what it is, but probably 6 or 12 pairs). This allows Alden to feed their admirers with new styles without taking a whole lot of risk. Alden of Carmel, which specified these boots, almost exclusively sells special make-ups, which they call Alden Fan shoes. I purchased these about six years ago, and they remain in good shape. The Barrie last is not the shapliest of lasts, and Alden's chukka boot pattern isn't exactly the sleekest -- there are three rows of stitching attaching the quarters to the vamp, for example. That's okay; these are still attractive boots, and Alden's dark brown calfskin is very clear and lustrous. Every time I wear them, I wonder why I don't do so more often.