Today's Shoes

Day

Edward Green bal austerity brogues in burgundy antique calfskin with single leather soles (Beaulieu model, 888 last). The 888 last was designed by Tony Gaziano while he was with Edward Green as a replacement for the 808 last. The 808 was a replacement for the famous 88, but both of these lasts had fit problems. 888 was supposed to be a better-fitting version of both of these. It is a beautiful last. The problem, for me, is that the toe is elongated enough that it causes the shoe to break too far forward on my foot. When I flex my foot while walking, the crease hits my little toe just behind the nail. This is a bit uncomfortable. Alas. Even though the 808 does not fit well generally, it fits me just fine; and I think that it will meet my square-toe Edward Green needs in the future.

Evening

Mephisto Allrounder Teramo sneakers in medium brown oiled calfskin and taupe suede.

Today's Shoes

Day

Edward Green austerity brogue bals in burgundy antique calfskin with single leather soles (Beaulieu model, 888 last).

Evening

Alden half brogue bluchers in long-nap dark brown suede with a commando sole (Barrie last). These shoes were special orders from Alden of Carmel many moons ago.

Today's Shoes

Day

Edward Green bal austerity brogues in antique burgundy calf with single leather soles with a double row of brass slugs in the toe of the sole (Beaulieu model, 888 last). The shoes pictured above are identical to mine except that they are made on the 82 last instead of the 888. Most shoemakers will recommend brass slugs in the toe of the sole as a mechanism for reducing the speed with which the sole toes wear down. They don't work. Only steel plates work. (Well, hard rubber plates work too.) But the brass slugs still look cool.

Evening

Alden long wing bluchers in Color #8 shell cordovan with a reverse welt and double leather soles (model 975, Barrie last).

Today's Shoes

Day

Edward Green austerity brogue bals in antique burgundy calf with single leather soles (Beaulieu model, 888 last -- the picture is of the same shoes only on the round-toe 82 last). Don't you think that these shoes would be fantastic in Color #8 shell cordovan. I do. If only Edward Green would work in shell cordovan...

Evening

Gravati wholecut cap-toe bluchers in navy blue Lama calf with leather soles (15537, 640 last). An interesting feature of these shoes is the sole configuration: in the forefoot, the sole is double thickness, but it narrows to single thickness at the waist, allowing it to be close-cut and beveled on the inside of the foot. It's very attractive, and it's something that Gravati did on their own without any prompting from me (these were special order shoes, which means that I specified all of the details). Amazingly enough, they have developed quite an aesthetic sense after nearly 100 years of making shoes.

Today's Shoes

Day

Edward Green austerity brogues in antique burgundy calf (Beaulieu model, 888 last). The shoes shown above are identical to my own except that they are on the 82 last instead of the 888. The picture is from LeatherSoul in Hawaii, which is my go-to source for everything Edward Green and Alden. Tom Park, who owns Leather Soul, is a good egg.

Evening

Gravati five-eyelet blucher ankle boot in dark brown peccary with a combination rubber/leather sole (15950, 640 last).