Today's Shoes

Day

Vass plain-toe bals with a floating medallion on the toe in cognac (really burnt orange) calfskin with beveled single leather soles (U last). Vass calls this model the Oxford Medallion. My shoes are identical to the ones in the picture except for the color of the calfskin. I don't wear these shoes very often for two reasons. First, the color is a bit extreme -- there aren't a whole lot of occasions that call for burnt orange shoes. Second, they're too big. I had never tried shoes on the U last on before I bought these, and on the advice of others who had, I ordered them half a size larger than my regular size because the U last was supposed to be narrow. Well, maybe it is narrow compared to other Vass lasts, but it isn't narrow in an absolute sense. These shoes are, predictably enough, about a half a size too large, meaning that they break in the wrong place on my foot and aren't that comfortable. Oh, well. If I had it to do over again, I would order these in a darker color (maybe antic cognac or Color #8 shell cordovan) and would order them in my regular size.

Evening

Sutor Mantellassi three-eyelet plain-toe blucher boots in navy blue suede with Norwegian construction and a rubber sole. These are more shoes that have an extended toe that makes them just a bit too long. They would benefit from being half a size smaller. Other than that, they're great. The suede is nice and floppy, even with a full lining.

Today's Shoes

Day

Vass apron-stitched bluchers in orangish tan calf (Vass calls it cognac, although it's much lighter than what most manufacturers call cognac) with a single leather sole and a beveled waist (New Norweger model, U last). The shoe to the left is the same model, last, and configuration as mine, only a different color leather. Although Vass calls the model the New Norweger, it's not really a Norwegian shoe -- it only has the apron stitching, not the toe stitching like a Norwegian does. The U last is a snouty, narrow square-toe last that Vass developed for the RTW shoes it makes for Florentine bespoke maker Roberto Ugolini. It echoes Ugolini's preferred bespoke style quite well. I like these shoes, but they are a tad too long. This causes them to break too far up my big toe for comfort, which reduces the frequency with which I wear them.

Evening

Alden wingtip bal in dark brown suede with single leather soles (model 904, Hampton last).