Saturday, July 7, 2007

Last Night's Tipple

Islay whiskies enjoy quite a following among Scotch enthusiasts for a number of reasons, I think. There are only seven Islay distilleries, and bottlings from all seven are readily available in the United States if one expends a little effort and a bit more than a little cash. This means that it's possible to sample and become familiar with all seven without Herculean effort, something that's just not possible with, say, Highland Scotches or Speyside Scotches. With their peatiness, Islay Scotches stand out apart from the crowd. They're extremely distinctive -- a mellow Speyside like Glenlivet has a flavor profile that shares more similarities with Canadian Whisky than it does with a peat monster like Ardbeg. And, let's face it, there's a bit of posturing one-up-manship among Islay enthusiasts. Peaty whiskies are MANLY in the same way that extra-hoppy beers are manly. At a subconscious level, I think that many Islay drinkers like the fact that they can handle a peaty, briny whisky that the vast majority of spirits drinkers would spit out.

Among Islay enthusiasts, Caol Ila has developed quite a bit of a following in recent years. Despite the fact that the Caol Ila distillery produces more Scotch than any of the other Islay distilleries, it's less well-known than Bowmore, Laphroaig, or Ardbeg. It's also harder to find because most of its production goes to the blenders. Aside from the novelty and rarity factors that appeal to snobs, however, it also has a following because it's very good. As is typical of Islay, the 12 year old has a big, peaty nose and a briny palate. But there's more to it than that. With some time in the glass, the nose mellows out a bit, and a big dose of malt comes through. Too, it goes down smooth and gentle, completely without the gasoline-like properties that some other Islays have. It's a beautiful, complex whisky that has merit outside of its Islay category. I can see why it is so popular with the blenders: it offers a big dose of smoke, but it's not one-dimensional.

Having sampled Clynelish and Caol Ila independently now, I will see how they behave when blended together tonight, a la Compass Box Eleuthera. Wish me luck: neither one of these is cheap enough to pour out lightly, so I hope I get something drinkable.

1 comment:

mamacita said...

Okay -- good luck!