Wednesday, August 1, 2007

Last Night's Tipple

The problem with all Van Winkle bottlings is that they are difficult to find. In the past five years, I have bought the Family Reserve Rye every time that I have seen it, and I've only bought two bottles. It's hard to enjoy it (at least, enjoy it consistently) in those circumstances: because I know that it will be difficult or impossible to replace it once it is gone, I hesitate to draw down my supply. But good whiskey is meant to be enjoyed, not stared at; so I had a pour last night. Unsurprisingly, of all the ryes that I've tried, Van Winkle and the 18 year-old Sazerac have seemed the most Bourbon-like. I would imagine that this is because they have spent the most time in barrel and consequently have the barrel give them a greater preponderance of their flavor and aroma characteristics than younger whiskeys. It's possible to tell that Van Winkle is rye rather than Bourbon, of course: the rye character comes through, particularly on the palate and on the finish. But nosing the whiskey is like nosing an older Bourbon, all vanilla and caramel and maple syrup. I will be disappointed when this is gone.

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